Having gotten its start with technology in a limited edition last year Oris is now applying it to what was already one of its most advanced models, the ProPilot Altimeter (£5,250 or $6,485). First seen in 2014, it contains a mechanical altimeter, with a dial displaying the time, atmospheric pressure and altitude. The new version is an upgrade on all fronts: the altimeter, which works by reading atmospheric pressure fluctuations in a sealed chamber, now goes to 19,700 feet (from 15,000); the power reserve increases from 38 hours to 56 hours; and the carbon fiber casing reduces weight by 70 grams. At 46mm it’s a specialty item, only now a bit more special.
Hermes H08 Chronograph
Hermès is also opting for a reinforced version of carbon fiber, although it mixes the material with powdered graphene, which acts as a hardening agent for what is otherwise an extremely lightweight watch case. Hermès describes its H08 watch, a slightly square-shaped number introduced in 2021, as a “sports-minded all-terrain watch,” and now the brand is pushing the sporty element in a series of iterations that combine the lightweight carbon/ graphene with colored rubber straps and dial accents. More importantly, it features a £13,100 chronograph version of the H08, also with the carbon/graphene case. Rather than disrupting the flow of the case profile with traditional chronograph stop/start/reset pushers, the chronograph is entirely operated by a single pusher set into the winding crown.
Rolex Yacht-Master 42 RLX Titanium
Alongside the resurrection of chronographs, another theme at this year’s W&W is titanium. Many parts have used this light, strong and corrosion resistant material, and after competitive sailor Ben Ainslie was spotted wear a prototype in 2021 – and after Rolex’s first titanium watch, last year’s Deepsea Challenge – it was no surprise to see the company’s final version Yacht Master in grade 5 titanium. The 42mm, £11,800 piece has a satin finish, except for its crown guard, bezels and bi-directional bezel, which are polished. A stark black dial adds to the aesthetics, while 100-meter water resistance and a 70-hour power reserve also make it functional.
A Lange & Sohne Odysseus chronograph
The Odysseus range is German manufacturer A Lange & Sohne’s entry into the realm of sporty luxury: Launched in 2019 and made in small numbers, it quickly became an investment-grade grail watch. New Ulysses Chronograph (€135,000, or $146,256) is also A Lange & Sohne’s first automatic chronograph, and it takes a fresh take on a very traditional genre. Instead of sub-dials for stopwatch functions, as found on most stopwatches, the stopwatch seconds and minutes counters are both centrally mounted, so as not to obstruct the large day/date display. Discreet pushers (resembling crown protectors) adjust the date functions And operate the stopwatch elements, which offer a bit of quirky flair, why not. When the chronograph is reset, the minute hand immediately returns to zero, but the second hand makes one lightning-fast revolution for each minute measured before resting at zero.